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No matter what period you play in, or which rules set you use, nice
looking scenery will always add to the enjoyment of the game.
Here, long-time PAW member Orlando Murrish walks us through
the steps he uses to make some of his excellent MechWarrior scenery.
The pictures here are thumbnails:
click on them to see a larger picture in a new window
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| Scratch building good looking terrain is not
difficult, things like tank farms can be constructed from card & plastic
items you would normally throw away. |
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Fig 1 Selected items from
this pile of bits will be used to scratch build two buildings. In this case
tank farms that will use the B5 template for the model base so they are
perfect for MechWarrior Age of Destruction games.
This is a pile of aerosol and bottle caps, and the plastic ties used in
the packaging of my son’s toys. |
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Fig 2 As you can see the
large & small caps will be used to make two tank farms.
Plan the basic layout before gluing anything in place.
If plastic items are dirty, wash in warm water and detergent and dry. |
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Fig 3 Basic pieces have now
been glued in place using a contact adhesive.
Note the layout has slightly changed from above.
Cut off bits of pen top have been used to add panels to the side of some
tanks. |
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Fig 4 A card gantry has been
glued in place using contact adhesive. Pipes connecting each tank will be
added later. This gantry will add strength to the model, preventing the
model from flexing at the base of the tanks. |
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Fig 5 Using a modelling
drill, holes are drilled in the top of the large tanks and in the centre of
the small tanks and just above them, in preparation for the model pipe work. |
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Fig 6 The plastic ties used
to hold toys in place are used. Straighten the ties bend it to shape
and cut to the required length. |
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Fig 7 Secure the pipe work
in place with a drop of superglue. This will also help lock the model
together making it sturdier. |
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Fig 8 Painting can start. I
am using a thick coat of enamel matt black. |
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Fig 9 Both buildings have a
thick base coat. Leave to thoroughly dry. |
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Fig 10 A dark grey will be
brushed over the black (Humbrol matt 66 which is actually a grey-green
colour). |
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Fig 11 One building is
painted: lightly scrub the grey over. The idea is deeper parts of the model
retain the black. |
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Fig 12 Grey paint completed.
Leave to dry. |
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Fig 13 The dark grey has
been lightened by adding some white and dry brushed on.
Dry brushing is where only a little paint is used and the brush only
deposits paint on the raised areas. Only used old brushes for this, as it
will ruin a new bush in minutes. |
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Fig 14 Silver paint is dry
brushed on, (only completed on the building in the foreground). |
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Fig 15 A close up showing
the dry brushing. Note how the brush strokes in the under coat are
adding texture. |
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Fig 16 This show a page of
paper signs to be cut out and stuck to the model using contact adhesive.
I used the table's function on my word possessor package and downloaded
safety signs from the web to make up the signs. |
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Fig 17 This shows signs in
the process of being applied.
Cut them from the sheet with a straight edge and a sharp modelling knife,
because this gives a neater edge than scissors. |
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Fig 18 Signs and labels have been
applied.
Note that the buildings have a dirty used look, and the clean white signs
don't look quite right. |
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Fig 19 Using matt black
paint dry brush over the signs and add dirt streaks. Now the signs
match the overall look of the building. |
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Fig 20 Add some finishing
touches: some rust streaks at pipe joints and on the side of the tanks. |
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Fig 21 Same touches added to
the second building. Leave to thoroughly dry. Then apply a matt
polyurethane varnish: this will dull down the silver paint. The signs
are printed using an inkjet printer, but the ink does not run using this
type of varnish. This will not be the case with an acrylic (water
based) varnish. If in doubt test on an unused sign before applying the
varnish! |
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Fig 22 One of the varnished
buildings next to a Mech.
Not bad for a scratch build! |
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Fig 23 Similar idea applied
to three card powdered milk containers with metal bases. This model is
scaled for 25mm and the tanks are 100mm (approximately 4 inches) high. |
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Fig 24 This model fusion
reactor is made from the tops of two Lego Bionicle containers (which would
be thrown away) glued together with a paint job and signs. This
building's base again follows an approved play format and can be used for
WizKids approved play. See the adjacent Mech for an idea of size. |
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Fig 25 This is a closer shot
of the model Fusion Reactor. |
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Fig 26 This building is
scaled for use with Classic BattleTech and is made from another Lego
Bionicle pack top, the lid from an aerosol can and plastic packaging
ties as pipes. |
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Fig 27 This is a
closer shot of the building (55mm or approximately 2 inches tall). |
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| All the above types of terrain are
in frequent use at PAW meetings, in particular during our regular MechWarrior
competitions. Come along and join in! |
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SAFETY FIRST
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Children undertaking modelling and
in particular the use of contact adhesives and superglue should always be
supervised by an adult.
Always use a well-ventilated room and follow product manufactures
instructions. |
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This page was last updated on
16 June 2006
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